Mount Rainier in March 2003

This web page tells the story of getting in shape to climb this 14,400 foot mountain.
 To summit would take 21 hours of climbing over a 32 hour period. 18,000 feet of up and down.
That's like climbing up 6 World Trade Centers, then back down again or it's like climbing up & down 15 Space Needles.

 



Seattle in the foreground, the mountain behind (about 50 miles away), on a very clear day with a long lens



Climbing on Rainier -  photo courtesy of Mount Rainier Alpine Guides



My father = > Former Naval Aviator and famed global adventurer = >  Capt. Bill Span (USN Ret.)

Dad skiing at Vail

We trained for four months, starting in the spring of 2003 to attempt a summit of Mt. Rainier on Sept.3

The story of my father's Russian MIG-29 flight and links to his Viet Nam combat aviation are here



The younger and much better looking Bill Span on first climb up halfway Mount Rainier in early June 2003, weighing in at 274 pounds.
Training to reach the summit would cause a drop of 21 pounds.
 



This picture of the mountain courtesy of www.skimountaineer.com Click link for detailed info on Rainier

 

Span in front of Mount Rainier, looking forward to what would be 10 climbs up the mountain in the summer of 2003



The Muir Snowfield. Looking up towards Camp Muir in the winter

This picture of the mountain courtesy of www.skimountaineer.com
 

The Nisqually Glacier (photo by Span).

The Nisqually Glacier (photo by Span)

The Nisqually Glacier (photo by Span)



Crampons have steel tips and dig into the snow and ice, required mountain climbing gear

June 28, 2003 Climb

My wife Melanie, looking out at the Tattosh Range, with Mount Adams in the background



Melanie is an excellent climber

July 12, 2003 trip up mountain

notes: Whiteout just short of Camp Muir at 9,600 feet, got down to trail just as
a front moved in and took visibility down to a few feet.

This was the best trip yet, felt like a blizzard, wind topped 45 mph high up,
temp around 35 degrees. Wind blew straight up the mountain, pushing me uphill on the ascent.

Started at 1:50, got back to parking lot at 8:30

After two months of hard training, I've dropped about 12 pounds.

Going up, I could see the clouds covering the upper part of mountain

At the high point of my climb, 9,400 feet, visibility dropped to less than 10 feet

It socked in good as I descended, passed by these guys going up, at about 7,000 feet

July 20, 2003 - 4th trip up mountain

notes: Left parking lot at 1pm, made 9,360 feet (Anvil Rock) at 6pm, got back to car at 8:30pm



Up the slope

Melanie in stride

Get higher up the Muir Snowfield

The view from 9,360 feet, the highest point of trip, just shy of Anvil Rock

Feeling Good! Coming down the mountain

Feeling REAL good! Going down is easy and fun

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August 9, 2003 - 5th trip up mountain

Notes:
Left Kirkland at 8:30 am, started climb at 12:00 noon, made 8,850 feet at 5:30 and descended to pitch tent at 8,700 feet.
Cooked dinner and took a short rest in tent with sustained 40 mph winds with gusts to 60. Up high on the mountain the winds
were so strong it was blowing the water out of the stream.

Broke camp at 9:30 pm to make descent using the light of rising full moon. Made car at 12:30 Sunday morning.
I wish I could describe how unreal beautiful the views were hiking down last night with just the light of the full moon,
I did not even use a headlamp, just the light from the moon.

Setting up tent after digging level base in snow at 8,700 feet on the side of Mt. Rainier

Melanie in tent with Rainier summit behind her

As always, the massive force of Rainier was making it's own weather and winds were gusting to 60 mph
at the campsite, while down at the parking lot, 3,300 feet below, there was no wind at all.



60 mph gusts were slamming the tent and it needed to be tied down tight

Anvil Rock in the background, sun is starting to set

View from our front porch

Mount Adams in the background and the Tatoosh Range in the foreground

 

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Sixth trip up Rainier was on Aug. 23. Left Paradise at 1:24, found crampon left behind at 8,700 feet at 4:40
rested 28 minutes then climbed to 9,560 where I broke through snow at bottom of a snowcup into a crevasse.
Pulled my leg out and broke thorough again on second step, laid out prone and rolled away from the deep hole
that almost was my fatal destination.

Started descent at 6:20, immediately after my heart slowed down and made car at 9:20. 5 hours up and 3 hours down.

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August 27, 2003

Seventh Trip up the mountain

My Seventh Trip was a charm!

Dad and I reached Camp Muir (10,050 feet). The goal that had been eluding me
my on all previous climbs due to late starts, whiteouts or Melanie getting altitude sickness.

Started at 10:00, got to Muir at 4:40. Left at 5:18, made car at 9:20. Followed RMI group up mountain.
Pulled overweight lady out of a crevasse, she'd broken through with one leg in hole, like me, one leg out holding her on top,
to her crotch and could not get up. She was very scared, like me.



The two Bill Span's at Camp Muir



Dad crossing Pebble Creek at 7,200 feet

Short rest at 7,400 feet for picture

Dad going up the Muir Snowfield

Mountain guide Lindsay in the lead, with Casey in the blue shirt, guiding the RMI group up the Muir Snowfield

The RMI group is coming up from below



 

 

 



Getting ready to cross a crevasse at 9,800 feet



Pushing hard at 9,900 feet. Casey, an RMI guide below, is carrying two packs (over 120 pounds), his and his client's (in yellow)



Dad at Camp Muir with the RMI bunkshack in the background. Dad calls it the "Hanoi Hilton"

At Camp Muir in front of Cathedral Gap and the Cowlitz Glacier, the road to the top



Hut built from the surrounding rocks

Structure used by the climbing rangers who work for the Rainier National Park



Leaving Camp Muir to start the descent of 4,630 feet, almost a mile of down or 9 Space Needles



This rock was about half the size of a Volkswagon beetle and was just sitting on top of the snow at 9,900 feet



Dad heading down at about 9,800 feet




Descending into the warmer temps and thickening air feels good. At 18,000 feet, the air has half the oxygen as at sea level
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Sept. 1, 2 and 3 -  2003

First day of three days with RMI to attempt a summit of Rainier. Climbing School is Day One

The route to the top from Paradise

Lou Whittaker, owner of Rainier Mountain Guides. First man to climb the North Wall of Everest

Lou and Dad hit it off right away when they both found out they were 74 years old



Getting ready for climbing school

Michael Horst, Mountain Guide extraordinaire, taught our climbing school and guided me to the summit



World famous mountain expedition leader, David Hahn, gives the briefing on our summit attempt in the bunkhouse at Camp Muir.

Dave's been on 10 Everest Expeditions, reaching the summit 8 times. He's climbed McKinley 20 times.  He's mounted Rainier over 220 times.

More info on David here

I reached the summit on Sept. 3, 2003 at 9:00 am, this picture was taken in the crater shown below.
In the back of my mind was the fact that I would now have to descend 9,000 feet, almost two miles down.

Crater at the top of Rainier (photo courtesy of Mount Rainier Alpine Guides)



The route to the top has large crevasses
 

Coming down off the summit

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Reaching the summit was 32 hour adventure with 21 hours of climbing and 18,000 feet of up and down.
That's like climbing up 6 World Trade Centers, then back down again or it's like climbing up & down 15 Space Needles.

I was tired for a week afterward.
 I've banked memories and shared moments with my father that are indescribably treasured.

Getting in shape and losing 21 pounds was another huge benefit of the climb.

I strongly would recommend planning your trip with Rainier Mountain Guides and doing it around the middle to end of June.
Call
(888) 89-CLIMB, try to get Dave Hahn or Michael Horst as your guides

Email Bill Span more about Span